Cuba was certainly the talk of the town at the recent NY Times Travel Show. Everyone it seems, has it on their list. In addition, everyone wants to get there as soon as possible to have the most authentic experience. Even luxury travelers have made it a priority; there is pent up demand to arrive before modernization changes the experience entirely. While I’d like to pretend I’m part of the cool group taking off to Cuba now because You Can, it was actually rather serendipitous that I made plans to visit in late 2014, and my trip is quickly approaching. A storyboard has been inspiring my travel to Cuba.
So what exactly does all this news mean for Americans traveling to Cuba? Until recently, most citizens visiting independantly had to be a bit sneaky or risk a permanent record. I remember a friend telling me how she had visited from Jamaica and prayed her passport wouldn’t be stamped by immigration. (it wasn’t) My blushing face would be a dead giveaway for any such shenanigans. In 2011, the Obama administration legalized travel through licensed organizations for cultural exchanges. No beach going all inclusives for us northerners. It had to be a learning experience. I have a legit government sponsored People to People program visa, but as I speak, it appears that if you can find a flight, even those are no longer necessary.
Information is changing fast. Two of the articles I had recently saved are already obsolete. One of the biggest problems for people that want to go now, is that the logistics can’t keep up with demand. Hotels are booked and flights sold out.
From what i’ve read, these are the things I am going to keep in mind for my visit.
- Cuba is in a time capsule, which means it is still full of challenges. I’ll check my American attitude at the airport and set my clock on Cuba time.
- This trip is all about experiential travel and absorbing the local culture. I plan on learning from people who have given new meaning to the entrepreneurial spirit.
- Leave the internet behind. Only time will tell how much withdrawal i’ll go thru.
- Remember that these are only first steps. As some of my Cuban friends have warned me, talking negative politics is still strictly off limits.
- Cuban food is more like Caribbean, not Mexican and varies greatly in quality throughout the country. The opening of paladares, or privately owned restaurants run in people’s homes, has improved the dining situation considerably. Inside, people tend to look the other way in regards to rationing. People are finding the intersection of a collective and private economy. As a pescatarian, I think i’ll see a lot of rice and beans, hopefully some good fish and I’m really curious to explore fruit and vegetable markets.
Official Changes effective January 15
1. Visa-Americans can now visit Cuba without the prior approval visa and without being part of a program. There are however regulations for the visit-and the reasons needs to be part of a 12 point list. The visa can now be obtained from the departure airport of the airlines you are flying on.
2. Per Diem-There is no longer a per diem rate for authorized travelers and no limit on authorized spending.
3. Getting There-US airlines and travel agents can now sell and book travel directly to Cuba. It will take some time for new routes to open up. United has applied to fly from Houston and Newark to Havana. Cuba Travel Services announced at the NY Times Travel Show that they will start a weekly charter service from JFK to Havana in March.
4. Hotels -This is going to be a game of catch up. There are a few good hotels in the country and all of them are booked well in advance. They are government owned and I would suggest booking through a reputable agent. You don’t want to arrive and find yourself without a room, as there are not a lot of options. Casas Particulares offer an alternative-perhaps I’d call it a Cuban version of Airbnb with a few modifications. Not easy to book in advance, and I do not have any direct experience with them. Currently payment at hotels is in advance-credit cards iffy or nonexistent.
5. Credit Cards-Although there is now limited use of credit cards, since the internet is not widely available, charges can’t be approved. I learned this when in Myanmar last year. All the stores will post the credit card signs on their windows as soon as they are available, but you’ll spend lots of time waiting nearby for the purchase to be approved, until you finally give up. Bring cash and don’t expect credit cards to work. Likewise, I am not counting on ATMs.
6. Money-Cuba still has a two currency system. The peso, used by the locals and the C.U.C. used by tourists and locals for more expensive things. The value of the CUC is about 25 X the peso and the US dollar is close to $1.15/CUC. The exchange rate is the same everywhere. The recommendation is that the Euro gets a better conversion rate, you can change the Euro and US dollars at the airport, major hotels and the bank.
7. Spending-All those friends who have been talking about cuban cigars can now have their wish come true. US tourists can carry back up to $400. of tourist crafts, souvenirs, rum and tobacco. (combined total for alcohol and tobacco is $100.). Art work apparently falls into another category and you can purchase more than I could ever afford (up to $100,000.).
8. Mobile phone service. The January 15 regulations permit American telecommunication companies to establish relationships that will allow American travelers to access phone service while in Cuba. This is not in place as of this writing. Sim cards are available for rent, but I wouldn’t know how to begin with them, and the lines are always long. Major hotels have phones – a call to the US will run at least $2.30/minute. Phone cards can be used from phone boxes in Havana and the rate is a bit cheaper at $1.40/minute. It’s common to have to try two or three times before you make the connection.
9. Internet service. Internet service in Cuba is hard to come by. A few hotels offer access. Most Cubans do not have service, and for those who do, it is slow and expensive. Best not to count on it and go with the flow.
Things in Cuba are moving fast. I am unsure how well American business men and women will deal with the regulations that are still in place. Officials from agra business are chomping at the bit, as are the communications industry. I’m sure for the most part it is an overwhelming set of circumstances and I look forward to seeing it up close and personal next month. Officials in Cuba will have to balance their desire for control with measureable action that American businesses will need to see to keep them at the table.
2015 will carry the first wave of Americans to visit independently and legally in five decades. For now, the time warp still exists, and I feel lucky to be visiting at this important date. Encounters with musicians, artists and organic farmers are on my agenda. Perhaps you’ll even see me rolling a cigar. Even though I hate smoking, it’s a photo op I’m not sure I could resist. Follow along and i’ll bring you as much information as I can as I travel to Cuba.
The great rivers of Asia have witnessed a recent surge in luxurious river cruises granting access to previously untrodden areas, sometimes inaccessible by any other means. This trend accompanies increasing interest in authenticity and off-the-beaten-track experiences, presenting an environmental balancing act for the operators of luxury river boats. Conscious River Cruising is a way to explore relatively uncharted waters in the utmost comfort whilst also protecting the fragile ecosystems and communities they seek to uncover.
Luxury travel specialist, Red Savannah, looks at two operators that have expanded their cruise portfolio along the Irrawaddy, the Mekong and the Brahmaputra, exploring their exciting new journeys as well as their approach to working in these delicate environments.
Aqua Expeditions
In October 2014, Aqua Expeditions launched the Aqua Mekong which offers Vietnam and Cambodia holidays cruising between My Tho in the Mekong Delta, to Siem Reap, sailing via the Mekong and the Tonle Sap river and lake. ‘Indochine-chic’ in style, the Aqua Mekong has 20 contemporary suites, a gym, plunge pool, top deck bar & lounge and a Spa. Guests can choose either a 5 or 7 day journey exploring communities and landscapes that are inextricably linked to the rivers and lakes.
“We are genuinely committed to keeping the great rivers of the world clean and beautiful, for today and generations to come” Aqua Expeditions
Recognising that the company’s future depends on the wellbeing of the environments in which they operate, Aqua Expeditions take proactive steps to minimise its ecological impact, going beyond local regulations. They are guided by four main principles –
- Practicing environmentally-sensitive operational practices on cruises
- Supporting environmental conservation
- Supporting wildlife preservation
- Encouraging local community health and economic development
Their vessels are well maintained to ensure fuel efficiency with reduced engine emissions as well as encapsulating generators to minimise noise and vibration. All waste management is conducted on-board to IMO and U.S. Coast Guard standards, resulting in clean water that can be safely emitted into the rivers, with any by-product responsibly disposed of or recycled. Food safety practices include Ecolab control to ensure cleanliness and to reduce infection, at the same time lowering water consumption and energy. Aqua Expeditions also invests in social outreach programmes which include local education on managing natural resources, protection of endangered species, funding the repopulation of threatened species and promotion of environmentally friendly ways that people can earn a living.
Pandaw Expeditions
RV Kalay Pandaw
Pandaw launch a number of new vessels, routes and joint ventures in 2015:
- For those interested in off-the-beaten-track holidays to India, March sees the start of a new joint venture on the Brahmaputra River in Assam region. The MV Mahabaahu is a 46-berth vessel equipped with a pool, spa deck, Jacuzzi and sauna exploring the hard to reach Kaziranga National Park, noted for its population of the greater one-horned rhinoceros and elusive tigers.
- For a Vietnam holiday that goes beyond the usual, the MV Angkor Pandaw begins a new route from June 2015, sailing along the Red River from the iconic Halong Bay. With just 16 cabins, the MV Angkor Pandaw offers an intimate experience with excellent regional cuisine from a local master chef. From Halong Bay guests head north-west through rice paddies and mountains, with the opportunity for some hiking and folk painting.
- A brand new boat, the RV Laos Pandaw, launches November 2015. One of Pandaw’s smallest boats, the RV Laos Pandaw has just 10 staterooms. Guests will spend 11 days winding along the Mekong River exploring the ancient capital, Vientiane, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Luang Prabang, the deep gorges, forests and remotes communities of northern Laos and on to the infamous Golden Triangle, where Laos meets its neighbours Myanmar and Thailand.
- The recent reforms in Myanmar have resulted in an explosion of interest in holidays to Myanmar, with cruises along the main river arteries connecting areas of interest. The RV Kalay Pandaw launched on the Chindwin River in September 2014 and is already fully booked for 2015. A handsome colonial-style river cruiser with 5 cabins, the boat travels a route between Mandalay and Yangon, where guests will witness traditional villages, monasteries, colonial towns and forest.
“Our crews and guides are all trained to be as caring of the environment as possible and we encourage passengers to do the same” Pandaw Expeditions.
Pandaw Expeditions source food at local markets wherever possible to both reduce the impact of ‘food miles’ as well as ensuring the financial benefits of tourism are felt within the local economy. The ships generate their own power and sewage is processed microbiotically to minimise their environmental footprint.
The company is proactive in the area of social responsibility, particularly in Myanmar, with a charity founded in 2008 following Cyclone Nargis, when their ships were converted to floating hospitals saving many lives. The good work has continued with the construction of twelve schools and an orphanage in remote regions of Myanmar. They also operate seven Pandaw Clinics around Pagan, with a full time team of twenty health professionals providing 5,000 treatments free of charge each month, all funded by donations and profit-share.
Red Savannah’s Asia expert, Melissa Matthews designs tailor-made holidays combining river sailings with bespoke pre and post cruise activities. Guests are welcome to enquire about local environmental practices and encouraged to visit local community programmes where feasible and appropriate.
 |
| Scallops and seaweed-a highlight of our tapas crawl. |
If you have the time, plan for a full day at the very famous Museo del Prado. Seeing one of the most important galleries in the world, you’ll be inspired by exhibits from all schools of art spanning medieval times to the end of the eighteenth century. Velaquez and Goya are well represented as are an extensive collection of decorative arts.
Well, I’m certainly ready to book a ticket! What about you? If you’d like to see some of Jane’s terrific mixed media artwork, often inspired by her travels, visit Shadowstories.
Quinoa is a vegetarian’s superfood. Loaded with protein, it is a complete, high quality protein, and contains more than any other grain. Easy to digest, this ancient Mother Grain can be added to soups, salads and pilafs. It even makes its way onto my breakfast table. A flexible Quinoa Salad Recipe on Meatless Monday is a great way to introduce it to your family.
I love making a quinoa salad when I am bringing a dish to a dinner party. Quinoa is gluten free; usually everyone can enjoy its great taste. Packed with protein, it is a nutrient rich food dense with phytonutrients and anti inflammatory benefits. The ancient grain’s history is clearly routed in South America, and evidence has been found that can tie it to approximately 3000 BC. The recipe for this salad is one that can be easily varied to include other vegetables.
The organic farm has several methods of pest control which I found interesting. They place reused plastic bags over some of the larger fruits and vegetables to keep the male flys from boring holes for the females to lay eggs.
