You don’t have to look far for eco-friendly activities on the island of St. Martin. While cruise ships and unchecked development threatened to overtake much of the islands charm, entrepreneurial spirit has captured the eco factor and given the visitor some really great options for activities which are more sustainable for island living.
The shallow waters around Pinel Island are perfect for one of Isabelle’s eco underwater snorkeling adventures. A professional diver and marine biologist, she will have you looking at this activity in an entirely different way, and you’ll leave with an understanding of the large impact you can have beneath the surface.
The butterfly farm. Both kids and adults will delight in the activity taking place at the Islands Butterfly Farm. The tour guide is incredibly enthusiastic and knowledgeable. The visuals are lovely,and i’ll bet you didn’t know that these sexy creatures mate for 48 hours straight!
Visit a grocery on the french side-you’ll feel like you’ve travelled to France and have some of the best cheese you’ve ever tasted.
{i realize these are sausages you are looking at-my cheese photo didn’t make the cut-and my family raved about these guys}
At Loterie Farm you can cross any number of items off your eco-activity list. From ziplining, to hiking or swimming in the chemical free pool while renting one of the tree house cabanas, this is one of the most sustainably oriented businesses on St. Martin. After the exercise, their restaurant features fresh and local ingredients on the menu toping off a day where you treaded lightly on Mother Earth.
Take the short ferry ride to nearby Pinel Island. Find a chair under a some shade under a palapa over at Le Karibuni and soak up some of the prettiest waters Saint Martin has to offer. The adjacent restaurant serves up beach side cocktails, and when you’re ready for lunch, select a langoustine right out of the Caribbean; when it arrives, be prepared for nirvana.
Visit the nearby eco friendly Saba where you’ll be treated to an off the beaten path paradise of hiking and diving. My earlier post tells you all about this special place.
Indulge in the local seafood which you can find all over the island, be it in sushi form or simply grilled. You can thank me later.
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Make sure to get to Grand Case, the gustatorial delight of the Caribbean. I highly recommend Le Cottage, where the friendly owners make it their mission to insure a good time.
Visit the market in Marigot. Avoid the touristy tie dyed clothing emblazoned with St. Martin insignias that are surely made overseas, and connect with the locals. There are artists, craftspeople and food vendors offering local products that are much more sustainable.
Take a hike, early morning is best before the heat sets in. There are over many miles of trails to enjoy along with the flora and fauna, not to mention the memorable views.
Pick up a bottle of the local rum. I loved the way they decorated these hand painted bottles and the liquids are infused with all kinds of flavors. You’ll instantly bring back memories of your visit when you mix up a cocktail back home, and they will surely take the chill out of the air on a cold winter’s night.
There you have it. It’s pretty easy to add eco friendly activity to any vacation.
I recently received the newest Ottolenghi cookbook as a gift and it’s made me even more of a fan. Chefs Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi highlight the best of ingredients and combines them with a Meditterean twist. Flavors are always fresh and vibrant. Of his three cookbooks, I think this one might be my favorite.
I must admit, when it comes to cookbooks, I do judge a book by its cover. I need pretty pictures when i’m in the kitchen or perusing a cookbook’s menus. Beautifully photographed by Richard Learoyd, Ottolenghi is no exception. The photos draw you in and out of nowhere, I want to know all about sumac, za’tar and cooking with orange blossom water. Sweet potato galettes, yes please!
The first recipe I made was this delicious cauliflower and cumin fritter with lime yogurt sauce. I couldn’t decide whether they tasted more of India, or the Middle East, but either way, they were enjoyed as a main course for Meatless Monday. I love when a recipe inspires you to think outside the box and devise other ways you can adapt the recipe. This was one of those hits that was easy and made me think of other vegetables {think broccoli or carrots} to combine with different spice profiles into the basic fritter batter.
People often ask me what is my initial inspiration for wanting to visit a country. A book like this one has me salivating to visit London and tap into the Ottolenghi restaurant scene.
I had read about Saba, the small island neighbor of St. Maarten owned by the Dutch, years earlier. It’s a mysterious place, rising up from the azure waters of the Caribbean, often shrouded in clouds. I could see it in the shadows when we landed for our holiday in St. Maarten. Knowing that it had been a film location for King Kong only added to the allure of wanting to see it for myself.
How can you pass up an opportunity to travel to the Unspoiled Queen when you are just a short ride away? This off the beaten path destination is no secret to divers and hikers. A 5 square mile eco wonderland is packed with hiking trails and diving sites rumored to be some of the best in the Caribbean. The unusual drop off at the island’s edge creates a deep and diverse eco-system. My family might have been less than enthusiastic about spending 24 hours off the grid in an eco lodge, but I was up for the adventure.
We were met by our driver and tour guide for the day, the knowledgeable and super friendly George Wilson. I immediately understood why it was suggested we didn’t rent a car. The streets are narrow and extremely steep (like regularly burn out a clutch steep}. It’s hard to imagine that the original roads were carved out of the mountain using only pics and shovels beginning in the 1920’s and taking 20 years. The only way to get to Saba was by boat up until 1963. That year, the smallest airport in the world opened, carved into the side of the mountain. It appears out of nowhere and landing is a heart pumping experience. With only 400 meters of runway available, the description ‘it’s like landing on an aircraft carrier’ was very appropriate. I was happy to have a local, experienced pilot to navigate landing on a strip not much longer than my driveway. The short 12 minute Winair flight was a memorable experience; I’m not sure if the fan is in the seat pocket was for the heat, or to keep you from fainting!
I was immediately charmed by the small villages. White houses accented by red roofs dot the hillsides. The well kept buildings have lacy trim accessorizing many of the structures and are reminiscent of the lace patterns seen on the traditional craft I was to enjoy later in the afternoon when we strolled the streets on foot. The views on our tour were nothing short of spectacular, and due to it’s rugged coastline, Saba does not have the typical Caribbean sand beaches, but several sandy bays.
Built into the side of the mountain is the Queen’s Garden Resort. A beautiful setting for our lunch of local fish, fresh vegetables and a paneer curry that had me transported to India. The view was spectacular, and finishing the meal atop a tree platform complete with recycled wine bottle chandelier was a perfect end to the meal.
Stopping off at the Sacred Heart church in Bottom, we had the pleasure of seeing the artwork of island resident Heleen Cornet. The mural she has painted makes the alter glow and incorporates rain forest scenes with religious icons. Her well known watercolors and paintings capture the dramatic underwater and mountaintop views displaying all the island has to offer.
A short drive later we checked into the Eco-Lodge we would call home for the next 24 hours. I’ve stayed in many a hotel that follows sustainable practices, but this proved to be the most off the grid location I had ever visited with my family. Tucked into the side of the mountain and reached by foot after a short walk, it is set in a lovely garden in the rainforest. The new managers, Maria and Michele have been there 3 months and have big plans for transforming this location into a spot where you can rest assured your carbon footprint is having minimal impact.
I’m bringing you the first Meatless Monday post of 2014 from St. Martin. On an island, many restaurants rely on imported cargo for their ingredients, but here I found quite a few places with plenty of options that are fresh and local.
Fresh langoustines were on so many menus. It was hard to wait, but the highly recommended Karabuni restaurant was rumored to have the best. I’m so glad I delayed my gratification for our day trip to Pinel Island to indulge in this favorite.
At the beachside Karabuni restaurant, you pick your selection right from the gently lapping nearby Carribean and with only the smallest amount of garnish, it is grilled up right before your eyes. Sweet as can be! My patience was rewarded…
We found the influence of India in many of the dishes served hear, especially the seafood gumbos. Colombo powder, or poudre de Colombo, is very similar to curry powder or Garam Masala with the addition of roasted uncooked rice. This imparts a nutty taste and adds to the fragrant and pungent characteristics of the flavor profile. The spice combo gets its name from Sri Lanka’s Colombo, and the legacy left by the workers the French imported from India and Sri Lanka to work on the sugar cane plantations.
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| The eco friendly Loterie Farm has many local ingredients on their menu. This butternut squash with local seafood had just a hint of the Colombo spice. It perfectly balanced the sweetness of the coconut flavored sauce. And fried bananas-well they were as good as desert. I thought it would be fun to try and recreate this spice combination once I returned home to savor the island vibe a bit longer. |
Photo by Glenn Koenig via Los Angeles Times
When making a spice mixture, it is best to use whole spices, as they contain essential oils which release as soon as they are ground. The taste will be much more intense if you take this extra step and grind the spices yourself. The unused whole spice will have a much longer shelf life than ground spice. Whole spices can be found in ethnic markets, online and now in many grocery stores. The rice acts as a thickener when cooking , so it’s great in soups and stews.
Poudre de Colombo
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Yield: 1 Cup
Ingredients:
1/4 cup uncooked white rice
1/4 cup cumin seeds
1/4 cup coriander seeds
1 tablespoon black mustard seeds (yellow or brown will due and are less spicy)
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 tablespoon fenugreek seeds
1 teaspoon whole cloves
1/4 cup turmeric
Preparation:
Toast the rice over medium heat in a dry skillet until a lightly golden. This process will take about 5 minutes, shake the pan often to prevent burning. Let the rice cool on a platter.
Place the remaining spices, except the turmeric, into the skillet and cook over medium heat until fragrant and toasty. Again shaking the pan often to prevent burning. This will take about 3 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a plate or platter to cool.
Place the cooled rice and spices into a spice mill, blender, or food processor. Grind into a fine powder. Place the powder into a bowl and thoroughly stir in the turmeric.
Your Colombo Powder is finished. Store the seasoning in an airtight labeled jar where it will keep for several months.
Do you try and bring back a unique taste when you return from a vacation? I’d love to hear about any recipes you’ve tried.
