I could go on for a good bit of time about how much I love, love, love India, {perhaps I already have } but the real world calls and it’s difficult to come back to earth when you still have one foot out the door. The Faces I Remember from the Beatles was playing in my head until I looked up the lyrics and realized it was the places-not faces, but you get my drift -right? Anyway, there were a lot of places where this trip could have gone terribly wrong, and never did. Was it all the research we did before hand, the people we contacted on the ground, or a whole lotta luck? Honestly, I think it was a combo of all three. Hands down however, were the people we met. Never have so many smiles left such an impression!
Sitting atop the Intercontinental Hotel at Dome, the rooftop bar, with Deepa Krishnan and her lovely husband set the bar pretty high for the owner of Mumbai Magic. She definately didn’t disappoint. From the initial email contact thru the hundreds of correspondences and changes we made, this smart, insightful and PATIENT tour operator is the one to call if you’re headed to one of the many Indian cities she covers. It was unique, off beat, tailored to fit our needs and first rate!
85 dozen eggs on the back of a bicycle! Are you kidding me??? And he invites us to his house to make hard boiled eggs. Be still my heart…
Award winning miniature artist Mizra Mohammed Ali Baig who sensed that I had fallen in love with one of his prized paintings on the wall, and graciously agreed to part with it. He also did a quick sketch of Jane while we were visiting and captured her perfectly {hmmmm-would she agree?}
The enthusiastic Jonty, our guide in Hyderabad was like traveling with a friend. Local color, personal shopper, knowledge of artists and craftspeople in the area-she was the energizer bunny who kept offering up more until we dropped from exhaustion. Uncle, no mas, take thee to the hotel, we cried! If you fancy yourself the intrepid traveller, she will put you to the test.
The charming family in the weaving village of Ponchampally who welcomed us into their home and explained the age old custom where an infant is blessed with a black dot to ward off the evil eye. Just another example of hospitality and the symbolism of color that ties this country together.
Water taxi anyone? How’s this for a greeting on the Kerala waterways.
Jijo, the resident naturalist at the Marari Beach Resort went above and beyond for my tour of the property. The resort was built in 1998 and the management looked to the local expert organic farmers for advice on how to incorporate their techniques into the construction of the property. Jijo was loaded with information and his enthusiasm and knowledge was quite contagious. Who knew that a successful butterfly garden indicates a healthy Eco-system or that guinea hen eating bugs can replace insecticides!?
Last, but biggest impression. Our fab driver in Kerala, Anan. He kept us safe on the hazardous, windy roads into the spice hills, found rest rooms and packaged crackers { you had to be there} on our 5 hour car rides and regularly located Sula wine for us in a country that doesn’t welcome women in liquor stores. To be greeted with this smile every morning, well, what’s else can I say.
The sights, the sounds, the smells, they all leave a memory. On this trip, I never thought I would be moved by so many people in so many different ways. Their generosity and warmth is what has left the impression this time, and for that I am forever grateful.
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| Discovery at Malabar House |
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| Village life along the canal |
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| The famous Chinese fishing nets |
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| Local transportation |
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| Laundry day |
Has a photo ever influenced a destination for you? I’d love to hear about what makes the top of your travel wish list.
Since I started blogging, I find that I have a lot less time for reading. I spend {too much} time on the computer, researching posts, reading blogs and just learning this new foreign language. The learning curve for me has been steep! When I read a book these days, it’s still for pleasure, but is usually related in some way to Green With Renvy. Such was the case when I received an invitation from Stonyfield to join From Left to Write and read Barbara Kingsolover’s Animal, Vegetable, Miracle. This post is not a book review, but inspired by her book.
Could you live an entire year eating locally or the food from your garden? Barbara Kingsolver transplanted her family from the deserts of Arizona to the mountains of Virginia for their endeavor.
I’m not sure I could get my family on board for a journey like the author’s, but I do make an effort to talk often about what’s in our food and where it comes from. I read half of this book during a recent trip to India, a country of sharp contrasts and huge divides between rich and poor, and then finished the rest when I got home. What I discovered along the way, is how much more difficult big agra business has made it for the small farmer and in turn, the consumer in America to eat in a way that the author and her family did during their year of discovery. I live close to Boston, so it is never a problem to find fresh and local. Affording it is another issue, and there, it’s become a question of making choices, often the lesser of two evils. As Robyn O’Brien, author of The Unhealthy Truth said during a fantastic Q&A {also sponsored Stonyfield}: For most of us it’s impossible to go cold turkey. Pick what works for you and your family and make it work. It’s baby steps folks.
One of the first things people ask me when I tell them how much I enjoyed my India trip is: Yes, but what were you able to eat over there? The answer is easy. I had been on the verge of taking meat out of my diet, and two years ago after watching Food, Inc, gave it up the next day. So, first of all, there are over 200 million vegetarians in India! The restaurants have pages on their menus filled with vegetarian choices. Secondly, I love Indian food and spices. Believe me when I say I didn’t return any thinner! I came across organic farms and sellers everywhere as I criss crossed the country. Going to market a few times a week, buying what’s local and eating what is in season, is just the way of life over there. Most people just can’t afford to do otherwise. It’s part of their culture, and as a result, the people are much more in touch with what they are eating, where it comes from, and how it gets there. The people of India truly believe You are what you eat {and karma can be a bitch}.
In the States, our food system is badly broken. We have a nation of overweight children growing up to be the first generation predicted not to live longer than their parents. Even over 50% of our dogs are obese! We might have abundance, but is it just too much of a bad thing? I truly believe an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Its much cheaper in the long run to eat healthy now. With continued discussions like this one, a sea of change begins to grow. The most exciting part of all of this is the dialogue that is taking place in places like From Left to Write. As more people speak with their pocketbooks, business will take notice. Animal, Vegetable, Miracle is one more tool in a growing arsenal of motivators to reinvigorate a healthy relationship with our food.
Join From Left to Write on February 21 as we discuss Animal, Vegetable, Miracle by Barbara Kingsolver. As a member of From Left to Write, I received a copy of the book. All opinions are my own.
Some hard core power shopping and gallery hopping and before you knew it, we were off to our next stop-the spice hills of cardamom dreams. So should you ever find yourself in the lucky position of traveling to Fort Cochin, learn from our mistake and stick around!
Many thanks to Good Earth’s Director, Beenu Bawa for her generosity.
All photos used with permission from Good Earth.
I’ve stretched the boundary a bit for Meatless Monday, and although I’m not bringing you this recipe from India, it is Asian based. This dish had me at hello, but I’d always been afraid to try and make Summer Rolls. To my delight, I got a lesson from a friend and the rest as they say, is history.
Summer Rolls
Ingredients
1/2 cup chunky peanut butter
1/3 cup water
2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar
2 tablespoons fish sauce (such as nam pla or nuoc nam)*
2 teaspoons hot chili paste (such as sambal oelek)*
24 6-inch-diameter rice paper rounds**
24 large fresh basil leaves
48 large fresh mint leaves
1 1/2 large firm but ripe mangos cut into long strips
1 unpeeled English hothouse cucumber, cut into 1/4-inch-thick 2 1/2-inch-long strips
48 small fresh cilantro sprigs
Preparation
Whisk first 5 ingredients in bowl. {Peanut sauce can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and chill. Rewhisk before serving, adding a little water if it’s too thick.}
Fill pie plate with warm water. Soak 1 rice paper round in water until softened, about 2 minutes. Remove round from water, gently let the water drip from round, and arrange on work surface. Dot with paper towel if very wet. Place 1 basil leaf in center of each round. Place 2 mint leaves atop each basil leaf. Place 2 mango strips, then 2 cucumber strips atop mint. Arrange 2 cilantro sprigs atop cucumber. Fold 1 edge of each round over filling. Fold in ends. Roll up rice paper rounds tightly, enclosing filling. Transfer to platter. Repeat with remaining rice paper rounds. Cover with moist paper towel, then plastic wrap; chill. (Can be made 8 hours ahead. Keep chilled.) Serve rolls with peanut sauce.
The rounds are tricky to work with at first. If they tear, don’t despair. It took me about 4 before I got a rhythm. Pick it up with two hands as if you were dipping a sheet of paper. Slip one in the water after you lay down the other, and the timing is good. They do stick when they touch, so just unwrap it after you’ve laid it down. Small tears will be sealed during the wrapping.
*Available at Asian markets and in the Asian foods section of many supermarkets.
**Thin Thai or Vietnamese wrappers made from rice flour and known as banh trang. Available at Asian markets and in the Asian foods section of some supermarkets.
The great thing about this recipe is how flexible it is. Substitute papaya for mango if you like it better. Add tofu or long pieces of shrimp { they look very pretty in the skins} and you’ve got a more substantial meal. I even think hard boiled eggs and string beans would be delish, something akin to Indonesian Gado-gado. Yum. And let me know if you come up with any other creative combos.
The Park Hyderabad is a great example of modern thinking in Eco design. The first Indian hotel to earn Gold LEED certification, it is a destination where caring for guests and caring for the environment are just different shades of green. I found local art, international design and environmental consciousness came together to create a sustainable hotel in the traditional home of the Nizams.
With a commitment to leaving the faintest carbon footprint, The Park was built on a site carefully chosen for minimal environmental impact. Local and natural materials, separated recycled construction waste and a maximum use of recycled material all contribute to the sustainable design.
In addition, 100% of the waste water is treated for re-use, low flush toilets and plumbing and a well planned rain water harvesting system reduce consumption of the hotel’s guests.
Organic produce and juices are readily available.
Best of all, there was an abundance of work by local craftspeople throughout the interior space.
Hand hammered lighting reminiscent of Mughal tassels and honeycombs.
Dramatic blown glass sculptural accents to the lighting.
Amazing metal work in the fabulous Hyderbadi restaurant Aish.
All these pieces combine for an environmental consciousness that sets a high standard India can be proud of and the world can follow.
