Elephanta Island Mumbai-The Glory of Shiva

Jun 2015

About an hours ride from the famous Gateway to India is Elephanta Island in Mumbai harbor. The Unesco World Heritage Centre of Elephanta Caves is quiet and very picturesque, a welcome respite from the hectic center of all things chaotic in Mumbai. The area is most famous for its unique cave temple, whose massive Shiva sculpture is one of the best examples of Hindu architecture you’ll find, the glory of Shiva, exalted in various forms and actions.

Once known as Puri or Gharapuri, Elephanta Island was the powerful capital of a coastal kingdom. The origins of the temple caves are thought to date from the 7th century. It was named Elephanta by the Portuguese, who took possession of it several centuries later, and found a large stone elephant near the place they first landed. Today Elephanta is a World Heritage Site, showcasing legends of Lord Shiva carved in rock cave temples. The complex is a collection of shrines and courtyards arranged in the unique symmetry of Indian rock-cut architecture, and filled with massive stone sculptures of Hindu Gods and Goddesses.

Gateway to India ferry to Elephanta Island

On a clear day, you can see the island from the Gateway to India, about 7 miles off shore. I found the ferry ride a welcome relief from the heat of the city, and the boat filled with just as many locals as tourists. The round trip ticket was under US$5.00, and you pay a bit more to be on the top deck where you’ll have a better view, but very little shade. Typically the schedule has a boat leaving every 30 minutes. There are also sightseeing boats parked at the Gateway to India, so make sure you board the correct one. If you like to be on the water and are short on time, I’d recommend packing a lunch and taking a ride just to get another perspective of the landscape and the city. The historic Taj Hotel stands command of the vista and skyline.

Once on island, a short train ride takes you to the start of the temple walk, under a mile away. You may also choose to walk along the pier.

There are two options for getting up the imposing set of stairs to the temple. Walking will give you some good exercise and a chance to burn up some of the naan you’ve no doubt been eating. It also offers ample opportunity to sharpen your skills bargaining or avoiding the hawkers from the stalls that line the path of 120 steps. Alternatively, hitch a ride with local transport or palanquin service, hang on, and make sure you have someone along who can capture your picture!

Vendors provide local refreshment and snacks {no I’m not that brave}. Remember peel it, boil it or forget it! The island is filled with monkeys so avoid having any food on you if they make you nervous. I put my water bottle down for a second to adjust my camera and it was gone in an instant!

Shortly before the temples were created here, Bombay had experienced quite a golden age. Sanskrit had flourished and writers had helped create a Hindu religious revival under the court of the Guptas. Although this period was not characterized by enormous wealth, it was defined by creativity and polished literature. Shaivism, the worship of Shiva, inspired the construction of the temples.

Inside, the massive columns carved out of solid rock lead you through a dizzying array of tributes to Shiva, one of the most important gods of the Hindu religion. Shiva represents the Supreme Being that continuously dissolves to reconstruct the cyclical recreation of the universe. As the third member of the Hindu Trinity (along with Lord Brahma and Lord Vishnu) Shiva sustains the delicate balance between opposing forces of good and evil. When the world becomes unbalanced, Shiva dissolves and reassembles the next cycle of life. The analogy of the necessity of night to follow into morning or winter into spring is often used to explain the role of Shiva in the universe. The tasks of Lord Shiva are numerous and thus you will find him symbolized in many different forms.

Apparantly, the Portuguese used the sculptures for target practice which along with neglect, accounts for much of the damage you’ll see at the site. It’s difficult to get a sense of the massive size of the caves and sculptures, but they are enormous. This eighth century Unesco World Heritage site is an excellent historic structure in Mumbai to walk back into another century and imagine times gone by.

Anchor on the ferry to Elephanta Island in Mumbai India.

I find the contrasts in India one of the things I love most about it. Riding back on the ferry, I caught this visual of a primitive anchor on the ferry surrounded by recycled plastic railing. Looking like barbed wire, I’m not sure it would keep you from going overboard, but certainly made you think twice about approaching it. Close by was the captain, talking away on his shiny new cell phone, listening to music from Rihanna. A perfect example of the many centuries still at work in everyday India.

The Elephanta Dance Festival is held every year in February, which is a great time to travel to India. Renowned dancers and musicians perform outside the caves, beneath a star-studded sky, in a memorable performance. Other times of year, an insider tip would be to time your return from Elephanta Island to coincide with sunset in Mumbai harbor. Take a minute to process the legend of Lord Shiva in what will surely be the last bit of calm before stepping off the boat to return to the city proper and all it’s wonderful mayhem.